Rock

Gear

Guide

Rock

Our guide team tests and reviews some of the best gear in the industry. This catalog shares rock climbing-specific clothing and the gear our team uses daily. They are broken into categories for easy access: Clothing, Gear Essentials, Top Roping, Sport Climbing, and Traditional Climbing.

Each link above is a toggle to move you down this page to the style of climbing you would like to review. You will stay on the same page and can scroll up or down to preview other category information at any time.

CLOTHING

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WARMER WEATHER

The sun is intense and hydration is vital! Hydrate the night before your climb/ hike.  Consider freezing water bottles or putting ice in them on hot days.  Light-colored and loose-fitting clothing will help keep you cool.

UPPER LAYERS

  • Synthetic Sun Hoodie - Arcteryx Taema Hoody or Cormac Hoody ( Layer 1 )

    Sun Hoodys have revolutionized our climbing layering system. This next-to-skin layer blocks UVs without needing to add greasy sunscreen and still keeps us cool in the heat. This is a staple piece for almost all adventures in every season.

  • Fleece - Arcteryx Delta Hoody ( Layer 2 )

    Grided fleeces are a proven technology. They breathe well and add more warmth than a sun hoody, and this piece has a good chest pocket for storing a phone and other small valuables. The Patagonia R1 is the industry standard.

    This layer and the sun hoody are interchangeable based on temperature and output for the day. Having a hood is a preference and should be supplemented as needed. This layer also typically takes rock abuse better than others, making it a great climbing layer for crack and chimney climbing. Yes, we wear a tee underneath.

  • Windshell Jacket - Arcteryx Squamish Hoody Layer 2 or 3 )

    Climbing environments change rapidly but we are climbing and still need to be light! This piece is a light, weather-protection, and wind-resistant shell that keeps body heat in when the weather starts to turn. This great on-route jacket packs small, clips easily to your harness, and works in light precipitation.

BOTTOM LAYERS

  • Synthetic Short - Arcteryx Gamma 6” Short ( Layer 1 )

    The Gamma line is one of the best softshell lines in the industry, making it the standard. Keep in mind, that longer shorts may sit better while wearing a harness.

  • Synthetic Capri  - Outdoor Research Ferrosi ¾ Pants ( Layer 1 )

    Having extra length in the legs will help keep your pant legs down while climbing in a harness. The 3/4 length option allows for good breathability and climbing comfort. The softshell fabric ensures a full range of motion. 3/4 pants are our go-to.

  • Synthetic Pant - Arcteryx Women’s Gamma SL Pant and Men’s Gamma Jogger Pant ( Layer 1 )

COOLER WEATHER

ADDITIONAL UPPER LAYERS

  • Mid Layer - Arcteryx Proton Hoody or for a lighter option Proton LT Hoody ( Layer 2 or 3 )

    An additional synthetic jacket as a layering and active climbing piece, the Proton breaths flawlessly and is essential as a mid-weight layering piece in colder weather. This piece insulates the core keeping you warmer, and breathes when you need it, during high-output activities.

  • Insulation Layer/ Belay Jacket - Arcteryx Nuclei FL Hoody ( Layer 4 or 5 )

    A belay jacket for windy ridges and higher altitude climbing areas is mandatory. For days when the temperatures dip closer to freezing or when the sun ducks behind the canyon’s walls, we choose the Nuclei FL for its light and packable design and great warmth-to-weight ratio. This jacket does well when climbing but is not intended for high output and therefore does not breathe well.

BOTTOM LAYERS

  • Synthetic Base Layer - Arcteryx Rho Hybrid Bottoms ( Layer 1 )

    Adding a base layer to your bottom half will keep heat in when it’s cold. This layer is classical and recommended for rock, alpine, ice, and skiing.

  • Synthetic Pant - Arcteryx Gamma Lightweight Pant ( Layer 1 or 2 )

    Light, breathable, and full range of motion softshell pants with nice design curves and articulated knees for climbing.

  • Heavier Weighted Synthetic Pant - Arcteryx Gamma Tapered Pant ( Layer 1 or 2 )

    Autumn conditions climbing pants with the same full range of motion, nice design curves, and articulated knees for climbing in cooler temperatures.

ACCESSORIES

  • Sun Hat - Smile Mountain Guides Happy Camper 5 Panel Hat

    Keeping the shade off your face is yet another way to prevent burns. We also like wearing hats whenever we have hoods up as it helps keep our vision clear since the brim of the hood is not in the way.

  • Water Bottle- MSR Dromlite 2L or Life Straw Squeeze System

    We usually prefer a bladder that is collapsable on a climbing tour. The more you drink the smaller it gets. We bring the 2L on routes but do not often fill it up all the way. This is a good option to save space in your on-route climbing pack.

  • Food: Energy Bars, Fruit, Sandwiches, Trail Mix. 100 Calories an hour!

  • Sunglasses - Smith’s Guide’s Choice Lenses

    These have a great fit and feel for hiking and climbing, with a variety of lens options for high and low-light adventures.

  • Sunscreen/ Lip balm -

  • Buff - Smile Mountain Guides Neck Gaiter

    Warm or cold, a buff is very useful. It keeps body parts covered to help block the sun and in the cold, it becomes an easy block for the wind on your ears. We wear buffs all the time in the field!

GEAR ESSENTIALS

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FOOTWEAR

Approach shoes are designed with a sticky rubber sole for added grip on approaches and descents of rock climbs. The TX-2 is a lighter more breathable version for warmer weather and an ideal on-route shoe. As you move up in the TX family, the shoes start to provide more support and offer more durability. Choose a model that works best for the terrain you’ll be hiking and climbing in.

Picking the right climbing shoes is very personal! First, the best shoe is the one that fits your foot the best. We encourage you to find a shoe that fits well and is not uncomfortably tight…

Evolv Rave’s or a slipper-type shoe is what we wear most when guiding. They are great desert crack shoes and everyday performers that can edge and smear well venues such as Eldorado Canyon. They are also especially adept for alpine rock climbs because we can slide them on and off quickly, wear a sock with them, and pack them easily in a bag.

Evolv Generals and La Sportiva TC Pros are great all-around climbing shoes with a stiffer midsole and rand. They will provide more foot support and edge better than a slipper, which is a consideration if you are climbing longer, all-day routes. The high-top version will also protect your feet and ankles. We prefer these on granite.

Evolv Zenist and Evolv Shamans trend toward steeper climbing. Both shoes have a down-cambered midsole and down-turned toebox that acts like a hook for your toes. This helps you pull in with the lower half of your body on the wall and will help keep the tension on steeper routes. Performance climbing that requires techniques such as heel-hooking and toe-hooking are also reasons we would pick up these shoes. We interchange them based on the climb.

PERSONAL CLIMBING ITEMS

  • Helmet - Petzl Sirocco or Petzl Meteor

    Both helmets are light and have full top and side impact ratings. They are also ski-rated, making these ideals if you’re multi-disciplined.

  • Harness - Petzl Hirundos or Petzl Sitta

    Having tested many harnesses, the Hirundos is a great blend of durability, packability, and versatility. We use this harness year-round, from sport climbing and long trad routes to ice climbing in the winter. If looking for a slightly lighter, lower-profile version that sacrifices some durability, the Sitta is for you!

Gloves increase security and comfort when managing a rope. We belay with gloves all the time, both outside and in the gym, and use them for rappelling on longer multi-pitch objectives.

You have to find the perfect one for you!

Preview our comprehensive medical kit supported by the medical director of many guide services, Alan Oram.

  • Communication Devices

    • Cell Service - Smart Phone

      Having climbing apps on your phone will really make this a more versatile tool. Gaia, Mountain Project, and Topo Maps are all great. Download zones before leaving service.

    • Remote Garmin InReach Mini

      This is a reliable backcountry emergency communication device that can be programmed to your phone for easier use in the field. It’s a must-have.

    • Remote (Multiple Climbing Parties ) - Wouxun Dual Band VHF/UHF 200 Handheld Commercial Radio

      These are specific tools for backcountry climbing with multiple parties in an area. You can program channels and communicate easily between groups.

  • Climbing Backpacks

    • On Route Climbing Pack - Creek 20 or Speed 22

      These have proven to be great all-around climbing backpacks with nice simple features. Look for a sleek design that prevents snagging as you climb. Then decide on the type of durability you want in the pack. For the Speed 22, we completely strip this pack down and remove the brain for multi-pitch rock climbing. Typically the Speed Series stuffs well inside of a larger backpack. For days in Eldo or Red Rock, where we hike in and climb with the same bag, we defer to the Creek 20. It’s easy to hike with, packs all of our climbing gear, has a short torso for better climbing movement, and is extremely durable. We prefer cinch-closure tops for our on-route pack to help with overstuffing, which happens a lot when you have a smaller pack!

    • Crag Pack - Black Diamond Creek 35 or Creek 50

      A pack’s weight, size, and features vary wildly. We look for a simple and durable design that carries well. We are less concerned with the weight. Generally, we are not taking this pack to remote areas with long approaches.

  • Guidebook - Mountain Project

TOP ROPING

SPECIFIC GEAR ITEMS

  • Belay Device and Attachment Carabiner - Petzl GriGri and Petzl Sm’D TRIACT-LOCK

    The GriGri and Sm’D are a good combination of tools. They work well together. The GriGri is nice for top-roping and is a useful tool for rescues in a single-pitch environment.

  • 6 Additional Locking Carabiners - Petzl Attache

    You’ll have the versatility to build top rope anchors and spare lockers for any issues that come up within the climbing day. These also transfer to good multi-pitch carabiners.

  • Rope - Petzl Arial 9.5 60 M

    Having a slightly thicker / heavier rope will help with wear. The 9.5 mm diameter is still lightweight enough for climbing but offers more longevity.

  • If you need to build anchors that are recessed from the cliff, you will need a static rope. The HTP line has minimal stretch, knots well, and will not absorb water so you can use it year-round.

  • Rope Tarp- Petzl Tarp

    Useful for keeping ropes clean! We stuff this in our backpacks.

SPORT CLIMBING

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SPECIFIC GEAR ITEMS

  • Dynamic Climbing Rope - Petzl Volta 9.2 mm, 70m

    Lighter ropes minimize the effects of weight while you’re climbing. We find that a 9.0mm to 9.2mm rope works well for sport climbing while still feeling light enough to not intrude on the climbing. We opt for a slightly more durable rope at the 9.2mm diameter.

  • 12 -14 Quickdraws - Petzl Spirit Express Quickdraw

    The number is specific to the area you will be climbing in, however, 12-14 quickdraws will get you up routes in most climbing areas in the lower 48.

  • Lockerdraw - x2 Petzl Sm’D locking carabiners on a Petzl Finesse Dogbone

    If you are top-roping routes after leading the climb, have the leader place one regular quickdraw and a locked draw, opposite and opposed, on the bolts for an anchor. This creates a strong and confidence-inspiring top-roping anchor for those who want to follow, lead, and clean.

  • 2 Additional Locking Carabiners - Petzl Attache

    It’s nice to have some extra gear for cleaning routes.

  • Belay Device and Attachment Carabiner - Petzl GriGri and Petzl Sm’D TRIACT LOCK

    Using an assisted braking device, such as the GriGri, for sport climbing has become standard practice. These devices reduce the force a belayer feels at the device itself and on the brake hand, creating higher margins of security. The added braking mechanism also helps when a partner needs to take extended rests on the rope while suspended off the ground ( projecting ).

  • Personal Anchoring System ( PAS ) - Petzl Connect Adjust

    This is a good tool to have in the backpack for cleaning routes. Please do not clip it to the harness and climb with it all day, only for cleaning the route!

While sport climbing, it is sometimes useful for the leader to build a more traditional anchor for a longer session of projecting on a top rope. Having materials available to build an anchor like this is key.

  • Stick Clip - The SuperClip on Painter Pole

    Some sport climbing areas have been designed with stick clips in mind. Not having one may mean climbing 20’ to the first bolt and risking a very nasty groundfall. Researching the areas you are going to climb in, is key.

  • Rope Tarp- Petzl Tarp

    Useful for keeping ropes clean! We stuff this in our backpacks.

TRADITIONAL CLIMBING

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SPECIFIC GEAR ITEMS

  • Double Rack of Larger Camalots - Black Diamond C4’s, .3-3, and 1, C4 #4

    If you are a competent climber at the grade, having a double rack of cams along with what is listed below will get you up (and down) almost any free climb that takes a variety of gear. This is not an exhaustive aid-gear list or a specialized rack for places like Moab or Indian Creek.

  • Single Stopper Set - Offset Stopper Set #7-#11 with some additional smaller pieces

    Stoppers are excellent anchor pieces to incorporate into the overall climbing system to help save cams for the next pitch and sometimes they are also the best tool for cracks that constrict. We find offset stoppers only add value with their shape. They fit where any traditional stopper can with the additional benefit of wedges into more flaring cracks.

  • Nut Tool - Wiregate Nut Tool

    This is a light and durable nut tool that clips easily to your harness. Can’t ask for much more.

  • 2-4 Shoulder Length Slings - Petzl Pur’Anneau 60 cm, x1 Petzl ANGE S Carabiner

    Having a variety of gear options and knowing which tool to use when, is what trad climbing is all about! Having a selection of draws and slings will aid in versatility.

  • 6 Quickdraws - Petzl ANGE Finesse Quickdraw or 6 Alpine Draws- Petzl Pur’Anneau 60 cm, x2 Petzl ANGE S Carabiner

    Read above. Quickdraws are a fast tool for clipping traditional pieces when an extension is not needed and have the added benefits of clipping fixed gear and pitons quickly with some additional security. Alpine draws in a quickdraw configuration give the versatility of extension from an alpine draw with a minimal length of a traditional quickdraw.

  • 120 cm Sewn Sling - Edelrid Aramid Cord Sling 6 mm

    This is a fantastic material for building a rappel extension. It’s strong, abrasion-resistant, and knots are easy to untie after being weighted.

  • Plaquette Styled Belay Device - Petzl Reverso and/or Kong GiGi

    You need a device that can belay in “guide mode”, this is a great, lightweight, option.

  • 5 Locking Carabiners - Petzl Attache

    5 total allows for options on the ascent, descent, and if performing a rescue.

  • Rappel Tether - Petzl Connect Adjust

    This is a good tool to have in the backpack for descending multi-pitch routes. The dynamic properties of the rope and its ability to adjust to many anchor stances make it a must. We prefer the Petzl Dual Connect Vario.

  • Anchoring Sewn Sling - Petzl Pur’Anneau 180 cm

    Sewn slings as anchors have become very popular because of their reduced bulk and ease of use. We like 1 on the harness.

  • Anchoring Cordelette - Sterling 5.9 mm Powercord 18’ or Sterling 5.4 mm V-TX Cord

    Having a slightly longer cord helps when connecting disparate anchor points and for slinging natural features that become incorporated into an anchor. This versatility and the abrasion resistance of the Powercord add to its value.

  • Rappel Ring or Quicklink - Petzl GO 8 mm Quicklink

    If you need to bail, it’s nice to have a ring or link to rappel off of. They are strong, durable, and next to impossible for the rope to pop out after being threaded, depending on which you choose. You can also use the myriad of carabiners on your rack for the light and fast option, but non-locking carabiners should not be used to replace anchor/rappel stations.

  • Knife - Petzl Spatha

    A useful part of the bail kit for cleaning tatted anchors, rappel stations, and for cutting new material to build better anchors at the above-mentioned stations. This stays in our backpacks while we are climbing along with other bail kit items.

  • Headlamp - Petzl Swift RL and/or Petzl Bindi

    Essential for early morning navigation to the base of longer climbs and a backup/ security piece when night falls and you happen to still be on route or descending back to the trailhead. Bring this on long routes, you can’t predict when time plans will change! The RL is slightly more powerful and we will use this for multi-day rock trips where we need a rechargeable headlamp. For early more day missions where we need light, the Bindi is awesome. Very light, packable, and strong enough to get us to the base of our route.