Prerequisites from the AMGA Website:

+You are a current member of the AMGA.

+You have successfully completed an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course within the past 2 years. For those renewing, their SPI certification must be valid or within 1 year expiration.

+You have led a minimum of 40 traditional routes, most of which should be 5.6 and on a variety of rock types.

+You are able to comfortably lead 5.6 traditional routes, which means you place protection.

+You are able to comfortably climb 5.8 on top rope.

The SPI Assessment can be taken directly following the SPI Course if the candidate successfully completed the course and meets the assessment prerequisites. However, it is highly recommended that the SPI Course candidate take time practicing and consolidating the skills learned on the course before assessment (3-6 months).

You do not need First Aid training to take the course or assessment. However, it is your responsibility to hold appropriate medical certification for the location that you are working in.

Smile's AMGA SPI Exam focuses on evaluating single-pitch climbing instructors to the internationally recognized standard while maintaining a learning environment of continually motivating and inspiring the next generation of US instructors.

Single Pitch Instructor certification is the second stage of the AMGA’s Climbing Instructor Certification Program and will significantly help candidates who wish to work toward the next stage, the AMGA Rock Guide Course (RGC). The SPI course presents many instructor-specific topics such as professionalism, teaching techniques, risk management, group site organization, climbing site conservation/LNT, and assistance/rescue skills.

The SPI Program is a three-day (27 hour) training course and a separate two-day (16 hour) assessment.

Certification is valid for three years as long as the candidate keeps current AMGA Membership and First Aid Certification. After three years, current SPIs can re-take the SPI Assessment to renew SPI certification. Any current SPI who attains certification in any Mountain Guide Program discipline attains permanent SPI certification status provided they maintain AMGA membership and the appropriate level of emergency medical certification.

SPI Exam Itinerary – Location Boulder Canyon and Golden, CO

Day 1 – 8:00 am-5:00 pm

Our SPI exam will start with a morning guides meeting led by SMG, with a focus on covering the expectations of the exam and providing space for candidates to ask questions about any exam-related topics.

Our exam day typically focuses on mini “real world” events designed to showcase the necessary skills of a single pitch instructor.

The tasks observed are:

+Candidate leads in the terrain

+Disparate and Proximal anchoring

+Climber assists from a base-managed position

+Climber assists from a top-managed position

Day 2 – 8:00 am- 5:00 pm

With the support from other candidates, each instructor will have the opportunity to showcase their abilities to take on a lead and supporting instructor role.

Candidates will be expected to facilitate the goals of the day, in a concise and educational package, focusing on continued demonstration of teaching and technical skills using scenarios that may require multiple skills to be incorporated into a given task. This is a day of work where guests are your coursemates.

EXAM CATEGORIES

+Risk Management

+Client Care

+Technical Systems

+Application

+Terrain Assessment

+Movement Skills

+Mountain Sense

+Professionalism

+Instructional Technique

FOOTWEAR

+Sticky Rubber Approach Shoes

+Socks

UPPER LAYERS

+Synthetic T-shirt

+Sun Hoody

+Fleece

+Light Windshell Jacket

+Warm Belay Jacket

BOTTOM LAYERS

+Softshell Short or Pant

BACKPACKS

+35-45 L Guide Crag Pack

ACCESSORIES

+Sunglasses, Sunscreen, Lip Balm, Sun Hat

+Nalgene, Minimum 1.5L

+Climbing Snacks: 100 calories an hour!

+ Buff

EQUIPMENT

+Helmet

+Harness

+Rock Climbing Shoes

+ABD Belay Device

+MBD Belay Device

Guide Protection Kit:

+Camelots: Singles from .3-3, Black Diamond

+Stoppers: Singles from #7-11, Black Diamond

+Alpine Draws: 6 Shoulder Lengths, One Carabiner

+Quickdraws: x6

Guide Personal Equipment Kit:

+5 HMS Locking Carabiners (minimum)

+120cm Sewn Sling

+Autoblock Cord- 13.5”

+18’ cordelette, 7mm Nylon or Tech Cords Only

Guide Ropes:

+60m Dynamic Climbing Rope

+30m (or longer) Static Rigging Line

+Rope Work / Rappel Gloves

Bringing any personal climbing gear you have from the above list is encouraged, group gear can be provided by Smile Mountain Guides.